Archiv
CW 01 2004
29.12.03 - 04.01.2004
| Searching for a nice place to dive we surround the island Pedro Gonzales on Monday. Off the southern coast, at 8'24,8 N - 079' 07,8 W, we discover a very promising small rock pinnacle close to the coast. Unfortunately the visibility under water is rather low; but above water it's much better and we witness one of natures spectacle as thousands and thousands of birds glide over our dive-spot. |  |
 |
Afterwards we stop at the village Pedro Gonzales, get to know the friendly inhabitants during our short visit, purchase a few cooking bananas (from witch Nela prepares a great Columbian breakfast the next morning) and sip a small Cerveza at the local bar, where they play eardrum-burstlingly loud music. We return to San Bernado Bay with its idyllic beach for the night. This is one of the most beautiful places in the Las Perlas Islands. |
The next day takes us to the island San Jose, one of the worlds largest privately owned islands. Today most of it belongs to a hardware store owner from Panama. We're anchoring in the Endenada Playa Grande, a large but rather open bay. So on New Years Eve we sail on, to the southern tip of San Jose where we're supposed to find a small but beautiful bay. We got this tip from Ted, a one-hand-sailor who's been traveling the world's seas in his trimaran for years. And really, after a careful approach and a few unsuccessful attempts at dropping anchor (the ground consists of pebbles and sand) we're finally securely anchored in a magnificent bay. What an appropriate setting for our new-years party. |
 |
And we have double the reasons to celebrate since Klaus is turning 40 on January 1. So besides the champagne we'll have a cake - on which there's hardly enough room for all 40 candles.
 |
On January 1 we walk over to visit Gerda and Dieter, two Germans who
arrived at a nearby bay on the islands eastern coast, on their sailing
boat "Seepferdchen" (little seahorse), 20 years ago. They were
searching for a paradise to live in and found it right here. With the permission of the former owner and under difficult circumstances they cleared some land and started a fruit plantation. Today they mainly grow super-sweet grapefruit and other citrus fruit. They also have sheep and chicken and live of all the other things that walk around on this island, e.g. wild boar and other animals (the leguan was delicious and thanks Gerda for letting me taste some -TOM) |
Those are really very nice people. In exchange for a bottle of rum and a
few canned sausages they gave us so many fruit we could hardly carry them
all.
On January 2 we return to the open sea. For now our destination is the small
island Galera, 25 miles away. A strong northeasterly wind carries us along
with 8 knots.
The island looks great, but unfortunately dropping anchor or landing here
today is impossible, since there is only one way and that strong wind is blowing
right at it. On our way here we caught a tuna fish and a dorade and they surely
want to be eaten at a quiet anchoring spot, so we continue sailing along the
island Reys East coast and get to drop anchor at Rio Caciques moth around
5pm.The place seems rather idyllic, but our first impression turned out to
be wrong.
After a short while a speedboat with two youngsters and two dogs comes from
the direction of the village Esmeralda. First they drive to the beach where
one of them disappears into the woods with the dogs while the other one cruises
along the beach watching us. After half an hour they come alongside and ask,
rather roughly, for something to drink. The girls give them something, but
as I step outside to take a look at the guys they lower their eyes.
Their whole behavior seemed strange to me, my internal alarm went off and
I prepared myself for another visit at night.
And that happens rather quickly. Just after sunset another speedboat heads
towards us. In it the two dogs again and 14 people, some of them standing
upright with their arms crossed and an anything but friendly expression on
their faces.
Well, I'm well prepared. First I ask them very friendly, then rather firmly
to keep their distance for now and state what they want first. Since they
didn't show any reaction and kept heading straight for SILVER BLUEs stern
(where it is easiest to come aboard) I use the signaling pistol to leave no
doubt that I expect them to keep some distance, but some are already grabbing
the stern. Only as I release the safety catch and aim at the guys did they
let go and keep some distance.
While they confer we weigh anchor and head for a friendlier place, which we
find back at the Endenada Grade on San Jose at about 11pm.
It's sad to say that this kind of thing does happen now and again, but unfortunately
only harsh self-defense helps - once the bad guys are aboard you've lost.
During our midnight snack - the fish we caught earlier - we live through the
whole thing again, but Nela's positive comment shows that she still feels
safe aboard; and that's really important.
We spend a few more great days in the Islas Las Perlas, a generally very beautiful
and safe archipelago with friendly people. Only the southern part of the Isla
Reys East coast should be approached very carefully.
More about SILVER BLUE, next week, if you like …
until then, take care!
Tom & Nela
