Archiv
CW 11 2002
10.03.2002 - 16.03.2002
Today is Sunday, March 10. Well, who can guess where we are?
Exactly, still in Charlotteville, Tobago! Slowly one could start getting the
impression that we'll never get away from here, but it's not all that bad
yet. It was simply impossible to leave last week since we can only get back
if the sea is fairly quiet. Apart from that we still want to take a detour
to the other side of the island before we leave, since a few great dive spots
are supposed to be there. It's already a little calmer out there, so maybe
we'll make it soon.
In the late afternoon a fisher comes to our boat and asks if we need fish.
I say "no" because Thomas does the fishing for us. Then the fisher
says that he doesn't want to sell us anything, but he wants to give us a fish.
That really surprises us.
| Thomas cuts the fish into fillets and marinades them and our dinner
for tonight is prepared. In the Afternoon we go ashore for a while, to see what's going on, because this morning, besides the usual "roaring" it sounded a lot like military music. Really, a cadet-band is playing on the sports field. But that's not all. It seems, there are famous people on the gallery again. As we find out later, among others, the Minister of Tobago. Although, he sits on his chair rather unimpressed. Quiet on the contrary of a few gentlemen in uniform who sway along with the rhythm of the steel band, demonstrating their art. An army with its own steel band! Not bad! |
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The spectators also move to the rhythm, tall and short, young and old, once again, everyone is on his feet. That's where we saw this little girl: cute, isn't she?
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It's a pity, that, at times, the music from the large speakers
can be heard at the same time as their music. That really doesn't go together. We go back to the street where everybody is hanging out today and it doesn't take long until we meet Ute and her daughter Julia. We don't have to wait long for Stephanie either. So we stand and sit together, by and on a fisher boat, chatting and watching the people in the streets. They even have souvenir stands today; those aren't usually here. This fishing tournament gave Charlotteville a totally different kind of people: they run around everywhere, with their cell phones, drinking vast amounts of beer, waiting for the proclamation of the winner of the day. |
I can understand one person drinking vast amounts - and that's the man running around in an oversized plastic Corona-bottle. It must be extremely hot in that thing, and that, most probably makes him very thirsty. Corona is sponsoring this event, so nowadays everybody is drinking Mexican beer here.
| But there are more people who are probably pretty hot: the men and woman,
boys and girls in the army. They are marching around the city in full
uniform, accompanied by their bands music. All that at approx. 34°C
air temperature - and they, they're not allowed to drink a cool Corona. Instead, towards the end, they present themselves in front of the gallery in rank and file and fire a salute. That was it for the army and therefore the gentlemen from the gallery slowly come down and mingle with the "public". Loud music is still roaring from the large speakers and apparently that appeals more to the Minister since his jacket and tie are off in no time and he's moving. There you go! |
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We go to the Corona Beach for a beer, agree to meet for coffee on the S.Y.
Julia tomorrow and then Thomas and I make our way back to our swimming house
because it's almost 5pm and that's exactly the right time to do some fishing.
And our fishy meal gets an addition. Something really tasty jumps onto the
hook: a sole! It's really interesting to study this animal. But no matter
how interesting this fish is, he's going to end up in our pan.
On Monday Black Mouth visits us again. Today he asks, if we want to go out
fishing with him. But we can't go today, we're busy with that damned technology
again: computers!
Therefore we decline. And immediately the question "what about tomorrow",
comes up. Well, why not? So we'll make it tomorrow. We are rather surprised
as he tells us at what time he wants to take off: he'll be here at 6am! That
means we'll have to go to bed early and get up again early.
Until then we work on the computer for a few more hours, do a little of this
and a little of that and then it's time to go to the S.Y. Julia, because we're
having coffee there today. Towards evening Thomas gets the anglers-itch again
and goes fishing while I stay at the prolonged coffee-time a little longer.
Actually Thomas wanted to pick me up again after an hour, but it's surely
more than two hours ago that he left. Hm! Less than 15 minutes later he's
back, and not empty handed. In one hand he holds two lemons - as it is well-known
you need those to go with fish - and in the other hand he holds a bucket with
a big Red Snapper and a small young barracuda in it. Well done!
That means we have to cook! Spontaneous as we are, we produce a tasty dinner;
baked fish (that'll be a culinary tip soon) with potatoes and cabbage salad.
In the mean time Bananas and his girlfriend Marsha joined us and we almost
lose track of time. Now we've got to get back aboard quickly and off to bed.
After all, the alarm clock will go off at 5am - fishing!
So the night is short and on Tuesday we're really up and already "awake"
just after 5am. Punctual as can be, Black Mouth is here and ready to go at
6am. So the men take off. Thomas already told me yesterday, that the fishermen
probably wouldn't take woman along. So I didn't even ask and stayed behind.
Which wasn't a bad decision since the two of them only return after 5 hours,
dripping wet, frozen stiff and also hungry. But it was worth it: 1 Wahoo,
2 large Dorades and 1 Tuna fish. We're allowed to keep the Tuna. Black Mouth
will sell the other fish later. We invite him for a drink and even at this
time he already has some "smiley water", which he obviously likes
a lot.
What turns out to be a little difficult is to keep the fishing boat at a safe
distance. So one of us is constantly running around, looking out, but unfortunately
we can't prevent the dinghy banging into our stern twice. Not nice!
Black Mouth takes off again around noon. As a little "thank you"
we give him a t-shirt with our Internet address and the boats name on it.
He really likes our gift.
I take care of the fish and Thomas recovers a little from the ride. Those
two really went to the islands east coast in that little boat - to Speyside,
where we wanted to go diving. Unfortunately the sea surrounding the top of
the island is rather rough and the swell in Speyside is quite impressive.
For us that means, that we can't go there. Well, maybe another time. Apart
form that, we're doing a washing-day today. It's necessary again!
We go ashore for dinner, to Gails restaurant. Basically Charlotteville is
nothing but a large village, so it's not surprising that, today again, we
accidentally meet Stephanie. So the three of us eat at Gails, have some company
and then this day is also over. It's after 10pm already and about time we
got back aboard. After all, it was a long day. But we don't make it on our
first try - the men are still having "a last drink", right at the
landing.
Wednesday, and today we sleep in a little. That's why we're still busy washing
up after breakfast as a fishing boat comes directly towards us. It's Black
Mouth, coming home after work. Right next to us he pulls in his last lines,
or rather, what's left of them. Somehow they got all mixed up. Thomas asks
him, if he can't go fishing alone anymore since he doesn't have anybody to
bring in the lines for him. That really makes him laugh. But getting those
things untangled isn't exactly easy so Thomas gets into his boat with him
and helps.
 |
Those two are really busy in that boat for more than an
hour. As soon as everything's fine again we ask him if he'd like to come
aboard. He gladly accepts that, as well as some "smiley water".
Today I just have to ask him: why Black Mouth? And, believe it or not, he explains, that he had such black lips when he was small, that people mentioned it to his mother and that's why he's had this name since he was little. Well, I mean, the locals here are all rather black. Here in Tobago they are even noticeably darker than, for example, in Trinidad, since there were lots of slaves from Africa here. Ok, Black Mouth is pretty black and therefore, I think, it's not surprising that his lips are also dark. |
Oh well, whatever, anyway, that's where his nickname comes from.
As you know, fishing is quite a wet undertaking, with water constantly splashing
into the boat and everywhere else. That's why salt crystals form in the eyebrows
and on the eyelashes as soon as the sun has evaporated the salty water. A
pretty contrast!
Today Black Mouth does the same thing he did yesterday: has a drink, we talk
a little and around noon he takes off again. Interesting!
A little later Thomas also goes ashore and I take up baking because we're
having one of our little coffee-meetings here. The whole thing takes a while
since somebody ashore lost track of time. But that doesn't matter; we do have
time. So a little later Ute, Julia and Erich are here. Thomas picks Stephanie
up from the beach with the dinghy and Bananas and Marsha also come over. Last
but not least John and his dog Nunka join us!
We're having a sundowner, just in time for the sunset that can be seen really
well from here, just for a change. And slowly but surely everyone is leaving
since we're all meeting for dinner ashore tonight.
Some are going to Gails and some to the BBQ at the Beach Bar. We go to the
BBQ and we're very disappointed by what we get there. We imagined something
quite different. The bill shocks us even more - it's not real! Later we find
out that apparently things are done this way here quite often: advertising
with BBQ and music and then … nothing but expenses! You can come here
for drinks, but for food: no! A real tourist rip-off! So we make sure we get
back home soon.
What a night: one rainstorm after the other. Closing the hatches and opening
the hatches all night long. And then there's a visitor; today Black Mouths
last stop is at the SILVERBLUE again. By now we're experts in securing his
boat without causing damage, and the smiley water is already waiting for him.
But he doesn't really want to stay today; he wants the fine drink filled into
a bottle so he can let his friend taste some. As he wishes. So he doesn't
stay long and is right back on his way. We've also got stuff to do, so lets
get going.
The work is done and to cool off we could actually go snorkelling. Marsha
also enjoys that so we ask her if she wants to join us. So the three of us
ride in the dinghy for a few meters, drop anchor and off we go.
Unfortunately the sun is hardly shining and the light isn't too good. We still
see many beautiful fish and corals though. There are quite a lot of brain
corals here. Unfortunately we also meet a few not so pleasant sea creatures:
jelly fish!
They get each of us, nettle us, and that's rather unpleasant.
We drop Marsha off and also return home, but only for a short while since
we're having sundowners with Bananas (even though the sun's not shining).
We don't stay very long because we still have to make some preparations for
the evening. A few locals are having a BBQ on the beach again, we're invited
and today we'll actually go. So we prepare our fish, some bread and smiley
water, which is much liked. We're already called the "Smiley-water-Crew".
Thomas and I need an extra sip of that today, because, while landing, we lost
our smiles for a while. In the evenings there's quite a strong swell at this
beach and it's not exactly easy to land the dinghy here. So we turn the engine
off early and paddle the last bit to the beach, along with the waves coming
in. We're already rather close to the beach and wanted to wait for the next
wave and then give full speed. Nice idea, but the next wave was a really huge
one that crashed right into our stern, simply washing us away. Bingo! I'm
thrown out and land right underneath the dinghy. Thomas managed to hold on,
but the whole dinghy is full of water and sand and that makes it very heavy.
So it can't be moved quickly. Wow, that was quite something! We weren't the
first that happened to and we probably won't be the last. Fortunately there's
a nice fire going where we can dry our clothes. There's tuna on the grill
and the mood seems to be quite good, but it's not the best party ever. What
is really fascinating though are the countless lights in the rain forest.
Actually they're called glow-worms, but seeing how it sparkles and glitters
here, I'd rather call them glow-giants. The lights shimmer and move around
everywhere, as if someone were shining a torch.
Around 10pm the party is almost over and we start gathering our stuff together
slowly. Thomas brings Nigel ashore first. He secures his fishing boat to a
buoy and so that he doesn't have to swim ashore (at night!) Thomas then picks
him up from there.
By the way, we decided today, to leave this place on Saturday. So we spontaneously
invited some of the people we met here for pasta tomorrow evening.
And since we're leaving Tobago again we have to pick up our papers in Scarborough
- and we'll do that on Friday, taking the bus.
So we're at the S.Y. Julia at a quarter to nine, to let them know that we're
on our way. Erich is coming with us since they also want to travel on slowly
but surely.
The bus was supposed to arrive at 9am, but maybe not. 2 maxi taxis drive by,
but they don't take anyone with them. By now even the locals standing here
are cursing. We even get a little shower from above, rain, which was totally
unnecessary, and then the bus finally arrives. But this one's almost full.
A few locals get on, but that's about it. By now it's a quarter past ten and
apparently the next bus is supposed to come in half an hour, so we continue
waiting. I use this time to order some bread from Jane that I can pick up
in the evening.
Half an hour later: no bus to be seen anywhere!
Almost eleven and then a maxi taxi comes by and we make sure that we get on
as fast as possible, and find a seat. We made it, we're sitting. We drive
along the coastal road to Scarborough for three quarters of an hour. Well,
it is cheap, only $ 10 TT, which is about 2 €. You shouldn't have an
appointment though, since, as we just found out for ourselves, there's no
guarantee that's you'll get away at all. The concept of time is really totally
different here.
Anyway, we're in Scarborough at a quarter to twelve and go directly to the
immigration office to pick up our papers. That happens quickly and without
any problems and 15 minutes later we're already finished. We look for Erich,
have something to eat together and walk back to the "bus stop".
We see a lot of well-known faces, many people from Charlotteville, sitting
there, waiting. We ask, if the bus stops here, and when it will come. Yes,
It'll come and it'll come soon. Then we'll also wait here. Sitting, walking,
standing; time simply doesn't want to go by. Two guys found a good way to
kill time. Thomas is playing with a small boy from Charlotteville. Those tow
seem to have major fun together.
I don't really understand what "soon" means. Now they're saying
the bus will come at about 3pm. Oh great! Eventually we wait until 430pm until
the first maxi taxi comes by. Lets not be shy and get into that vehicle. We're
on our way back to Charlotteville where we arrive at 5.15pm.
Amazing: for a piece of paper that we got in 5 minutes, we've been travelling
for 8 hours! Insane! If we would have known, only one of us would have gone
and the other one could have made preparations for tonight. Ok, those "if,
would, could" aren't helping. But one thing is for sure: we won't go
to Scarborough by bus ever again.
And if we come to Tobago again we'll sign in here in Charlotteville. Because,
by now you can also sing in and out here in Charlotteville even though it
isn't written anywhere and you can't find that information in any guide book.
So, sailor, if you're coming to Tobago, remember that!
Rather tired from the waiting and the heat we go to a bar and get something
to drink. Then I quickly go to see the vegetable man - it's Friday - and pick
up the bread I ordered this morning.
It's really time for us to get back aboard since we're having our pasta evening
today. We said 8pm so we still have 1.5 hours. I quickly cut up the ingredients
for the tomato sauce and put it on the stove so it can cook along nicely and
of course Thomas has to mix some smiley water. As soon as the table is laid
outside and the cushions are laid out it starts to pour. Fine, then we'll
eat inside. As the rain stops our visitors arrive, one by one.
Marsha and Bananas brought a tasty salad, Erich and Ute are bringing desert,
a nice vanilla pudding with rum raisins and Stephanie took care of the beer.
To make sure we have the right music, John also brought a CD with Tobago music.
We're having all that together with "all-you-can-eat" Spaghetti
and tomato sauce and enjoy a wonderful evening together.
Today is Saturday, March 16, and we're leaving this afternoon. Not before
the afternoon, so that we arrive in Trinidad with the first daylight, early
on Sunday morning. After all, it's 80nm. What's not looking too good though,
is the weather. Oh well, until noon that could still change. First we're going
to remove the remainders of last night.
Oh, a visitor is coming: Black Mouth. He pops around for a last sip of smiley
water. A little later another boat with 2 fishermen in it comes towards us.
What's wrong now?
One of them tells Black Mouth that he also wants to try, but unfortunately
that was all that was left over. There were only just 2 glasses left in the
fridge and that's it. Black Mouth gives his friend the glass and doesn't get
it back before it's totally empty.
Since we anyway have to go ashore later we agree to meet with Black Mouth
there, so we can say bye-bye. Oh dear, the weather. It's raining non-stop
and a glance at the sky doesn't really let one hope for improvement. Oh well!
So nobody's leaving today. Bananas also wanted to go sailing today and invited
friends over but in this weather they're not going out either. In the early
afternoon we go ashore to get something to eat. By the way, the culinary tip
is still missing; coming up now. We've just put a foot on the ground as it
starts to rain again. Actually we'd only planned on a small quick lunch, but
it takes rather long until we get our food and get to drive back. We say a
final bye-bye to Stephanie whom we just met, and go back to the dinghy.
At the landing we meet Black Mouth. He sits there proudly with his new t-shirt.
We say good-bye and tell him, that we'll be back - and he invites us.
We get into the dinghy and quickly stop at the S.Y. Julia because we still
have to give something back. We didn't have a watch with us and only now realise
that it's already 3.30pm.The weather hasn't changed a bit and under these
conditions we won't take off! So we have some coffee and postpone our departure
until tonight. We're sitting together chatting for a last time.
Just after 5pm it's finally time for us to say good-bye and get back aboard.
There we get the ship ready and prepare everything for our departure. 9.30pm,
we're going to bed, the alarm clock is set for 2.10am and once again, that's
it for today and this week.
… what the next week brought us
… here, in one week (!):
same time, same place!
so long
Diana + Thomas
and now, the culinary tip:
Tuna-Lasagne (serves 4)
2 bunches of spring onions or 2 normal onions
2 garlic cloves
2 tins of peeled tomatoes or the same amount fresh tomatoes (approx. 8)
2 tablespoonfuls tomato concentrate
2 tablespoonfuls chopped parsley
freshly ground pepper, Pepperocini
425g tuna fish in water
500ml fat free milk
2 tablespoonfuls flour
2 eggs, beaten
a pinch of nutmeg (remember to grind the whole nut yourself)
oil to line the baking dish
12 ready made lasagne noodles
1 tablespoonful ground parmesan
150g ground cheese for the top
0,5 tablespoonfuls paprika powder
Cut the spring onions into rings or the normal onions into small dice, peel
the garlic, chop it up finely, mash it and fry it in a little olive oil.
Add tomatoes, tomato concentrate and parsley, mix well and add pepper or Pepperocini
to taste. If you like you can also add Italian herbs, depending on your taste.
Drain the tuna and carefully stir it in.
Mix the milk and flour and let them thicken on low heat. Add the beaten eggs
and nutmeg and stir.
Prepare the lasagne noodles according to the given instructions, e.g. soak
in water.
Line a baking dish with oil, cover the bottom with 4 lasagne noodles and spread
half the tuna-mixture onto them evenly. Add another layer of lasagne noodles,
the other half of the mixture and cover everything with a third layer of lasagne
noodles. Pour the sauce over everything and sprinkle the cheese (both kinds
mixed) and the paprika powder on top.
Bake at 180°C for approx. 30 minutes.
Served with a nice salad this is a tasty meal. You could also serve it as
a starter; then it's easily enough for 6 people.
Since this lasagne also tastes very nice when cold, it would be a pity to
only make half the amount. :)
Enjoy!
